We have been walking, walking, walking, and it has been hot,
hot, hot. We have a bit of a respite today, January 13, with cooling rain, but
it has put a damper (literally? What IS a damper anyway?) on our explorations.
Walking is our exercise and our main mode of transportation.
As we have gone about the business of getting settled in Buenos Aires (until
the end of February) we have walked through the city both knowing where we were
going (museums, synagogues, markets, etc.) and just to wander. In establishing
some basic amenities (getting a phone, finding our apartment, picking up money
transfers) we have spent hours getting nowhere (a familiar experience in Latin
America) which would be frustrating if we had any commitments to meet. Instead
we have just counted the steps toward our daily exercise goal and kept our eyes
and ears open for serendipity and inspiration.
Last Tuesday,
January 6, on our way to visit the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, as we were
walking along Avenida San Juan, I (Linda) saw two little signs placed in a
patch of earth along the sidewalk (which I photographed).
They read:
Remo Berardo
10-12-77
detenido desaparecido del barrio
durante (says one) por (says the other)
la dictadura militar
presente en nuestra memoria
Vecinos de San Christobal
24-03-04
My translation:
Remo Berardo
December 10, 1977
Detained
“disappeared” from the neighborhood
during (says one) by
(says the other)
the military
dictatorship
Present in our memory
The Neighbors of San
Christobal
March 24, 2004
We have
since seen markers similar to these in many places throughout the city. The
signs reminded me of the cobblestones I had recently seen in Eastern Europe,
with similar epitaphs, in front of homes where Jews had lived before being
taken to their deaths during World War II. Small reminders, easily passed by
and overlooked in a bustling metropolis, of a darker past and of the sorrow and
loss that persist.

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *
![]() |
San Telmo |
Our apartment is in San Telmo, which Lonely Planet
Argentina describes as “one of BA’s most attractive and historically rich
barrios [with]… narrow cobbled streets and low-story colonial housing…” Within
a few blocks are scores of bars, cafés, café-bars,
restaurants, small stores of every kind, galleries, bookstores, and more, with
residences at and above street level. There are chinos – small grocery
stores – and verdurderías – fruit and vegetable stalls – on just about
every block. It’s a mix of working-class, gentrified, run-down, and bohemian.
Our apartment is on the outskirts of the neighborhood and relatively
inexpensive.
Not far away is the riverside area of Puerto Madero, the river, and
beyond that, the Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur, a large nature reserve where,
one of these days, we will go biking using Eco-Bici, Buenos Aires’ free bike
sharing program. Today we located a station just a couple of blocks from our
house.


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